3rd journey to Egypt: Nile Cruise from 20th to 27th October, 2005

In 2005 my interest in Egypt and Ardeth Bay was arisen again heavily. Not only did I resume writing and ending the Ardeth I - story after three years break - but I decided to travel to Egypt, too. So in autumn my mother and I made a Nile cruise, travelled by ship to all these lovely places between Luxor and Aswan I have visited four years ago. So now in this report I will concentrate on the things I did not visit in 2001.

1st day: 20th October, 2005: Luxor

We arrived by plane at noon in Luxor and were immediately brought on our cruise ship "MS Regina". In the evening we still visited the temple of Luxor in darkness with our group around tour guide Amani.

2nd day: 21st October, 2005: Luxor

Rising at 5 a. m. - wonderful, that is Egypt! Therefore we were very early in the Valley of the Kings. I visited the tombs of Tutmosis III (KV 34), Tawosret and Sethnackhte (KV 14), and of Ramses IV (KV 2) - in this order because of the chronological development of the tomb construction: first a tomb from the 17th, then from the 18th and last from the 19th dynsty. Actually I wanted to see the tomb of Sethos I, but I haven't had luck, neither in 1999, nor in 2001 and 2005 this tomb was opened for the puplic. - We went further to Al-Deir el-Bahri, the famous temple of Hatschepsut, and here now - opposite to 2001 - all terraces were open. After a visit in an alabaster shop we went to the Valley of the Queens, first time for me. The most famous tomb (that of Nefertari) is closed to the public. We visited the tomb of one son (Amunherchopeshef) of Ramses III. On our way back we passed the colossi of Memnon, and I saw happily that the temple of Amenophis III, to which the two colossi belong, is in the state of being reconstructed. At noon we were back aboard and we started with the cruise. In the evening we arrived in front of the locks of Esna and stood overnight here.

3rd day: 22nd October, 2005: Esna, Edfu, and Kom Ombo

In the morning we went to the temple of Chnum in Esna, which lies not very far away from the pier. You can walk along. It lies 10 m under the level of the today's streets, so we had to step down. Of the temple only the entrance hall is left. There are 24 columns, 11 m high, which hold the ceiling which shows astrological depictions and vultures. The temple dates back to the Ptolemy-dynasty, later the Romans added some reliefs and inscriptions. Here one can see the typical body-accented Roman-Greek style: The gods were not worked out as fine and elaborate like in the New Kingdom time.

We drove on to Edfu and didn't have much time for the Horus temple. The entrance was displaced in the last four years. Now we went in from the front side of the temple, four years ago the entrance for the public was from behind the temple. - Whereas we cruised again we saw an old paddle wheel steamer. It originates from the year 1917, and it resembled much the ship on which Evy and Rick travelled in "The Mummy" and which burned down. Okay, we weren't attacked by any Medjai and could reach Kom Ombo, but we didn't visit the temple this time, but on our way back from Aswan to Luxor. Nevertheless, the traditionel Galabea-party took place this evening. And here we have some nice Medjai, not trying to burn the ship...

4th day: 23rd October, 2005: Aswan

After lunch we did the typical Aswan-tour: We visited the New Dam, the temple of Philae, the unfinished obelisk, and we did a ride on a motor boat to the cataracts, but here we were too late for riding the camels.

5th day: 24th October, 2005: Abu Simbel, Aswan

Waking up at 2.45 a. m. because of the Abu-Simbel-tour. Here, too, things have changed. The entrance way is now beautifully made, all is paved and there is also an entrance hall. Toilets are now outside the tempel at the entrance hall, not inside. Remember this, when visiting the temple, because it's quite a long way from the entrance hall to the temples. - In the afternon we went to the Kitchener island (botanical garden) by boat - and it was like always: We gave our content of the breakfast-set from the Abu-Simbel-tour to the numerous cats. Back on the eastern bank we made a city tour through Aswan which was also new to us. We visited a mosque and a coptic chruch, then we drank tea in the "Nubian House" during sunset. In Aswan you will see the tombs on the opposite bank (see picture on the right), and I would like to have visited them, but unfortunatley we hadn't have time for doing that. Next journey - next chance.

6th day: 25th October, 2005: Kom Ombo

During the night we have reached Kom Ombo, so we visited the beautiful double temple of Kom Ombo early in the morning. I discovered on a relief in the Mammisi of Euergetes a small lion hidden in the papyrus marsh - that was due to a joke of the relief painter. He must have been very bored so he added the lion.

7th day: 26th October, 2005: Karnak and Dendera

Karnak twice: In the morning we visited the temple with our guide, in the evening there was the Sound & Light-show there. After the morning tour my mother and I seperated from the group and went to the museum, where we remained for 2 hours. It is modern and recommendable, because it is not overloaden and shows some important findings, for example the statues which were found in the underground chamber (cachette) in the temple of Luxor.
In the afternoon we visited the temple of Hathor at Dendera, which was a real highlight to me. It was the first time for me, and the temple is very interesting. In an underground chamber (under the sanctuary) there is a relief showing the use if electricity. Outside we have the famous Cleopatra VII with her son Ptolemy depicted on the backmost wall, really beautiful. Please click on the pictures below for more information on Dendera temple.

8th day: 27th October, 2005: Luxor, flight home

In the morning I once visited for myself the temple of Luxor which lied opposite of our "MS Regina". I was nearly alone there and passed a wonderful time. Then I did some shopping (books...). During this journey we hadn't found time to go on bazars. At 11 a. m. the bus brought us to the airport, where we departed at 1.20 p. m. - flying over the desert in direction to Hurghada. What a beautiful view! Late in the evening we were back in Frankfurt.